Photo, © Professor
Shutterbug
Story by Kathryn Retzler
The setting is spectacular, the town is unique—it’s living
history preserved
in spirit, lifestyle and architecture. Silverton sits on the roof of
the
nation, one of the last great remnants of the American West. It is just
250 miles from Denver, but twice that by rail—rails built by hand
through
the Rocky Mountains, an incredible feat accomplished against
nearly-impossible
odds of rugged terrain and hard weather.
Today the town no longer connects to Denver by rail, but the
tracks
do lead south to Durango, home of the Durango & Silverton Narrow
Gauge
Railroad. With its authentic steam locomotives and strings of bright
gold
passenger cars, the train no longer carries supplies and workers to the
mines that once sustained the community, but tourists—the new lifeblood
of this old boom and bust town.
Hardrock mining founded Silverton and kept it going for more
than a
century. Originally discovered by Charles Baker and his group looking
for
silver and gold here in the mid-1800s, the town was first called
Baker’s
Park. It sits, a slightly sloped, flat meadow, in the bowl of an old
volcanic
caldera. Today the surrounding mountains top 14,000 feet, but eons ago,
they poked their heads more than 30,000 feet into the brilliant blue
sky.
Baker and his group left, chased away by the Ute people for invading
their
native hunting grounds. But after the Civil War, survivors returned,
freshly
fortified, equally determined. After the Utes moved from the area
following
the signing of the Brunot Treaty, Silverton was established as a mining
camp, and later, a town. The main streets were named after early
settlers:
Greene, Reese, Snowden. A raucous red-light district was established on
the east side of Greene, then later, a block east on “Notorious Blair
Street.”
Because the town was never the victim of a major fire, as so
many mining
camps were, the buildings have been preserved, many of them with
original
furnishings, fixtures, stamped tin ceilings and polished, mirrored back
bars. Because of its relative remoteness, Silverton has not (yet)
suffered
the fate of some of her neighbors and been developed to
unaffordability,
yuppified to death with trendy chain shops, pricey cafes and high
dollar
condos. It’s still a friendly place to live and visit.
Much remains as it was. The mines are closed, but many reminders of
them are still visible and visitable, in the mountains and in the
museum.
The old bars and restaurants are still open for a drink or a meal. The
ladies of the line are gone, but the bordellos are still there, spiffed
up, winterized and made into comfortable hotels, shops and restaurants.
All over Silverton, the pioneer spirit prevails, as
descendants of the
original families and determined newcomers welcome guests and proudly
preserve
their town of Silverton. Come, join us for a visit to a very special
place.
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