by Samantha Tisdel Wright
All content © San Juan Publishing Group, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

SILVERTON IS A RUGFED LITTLE NUGED of a town, lost in a high and stunning glacier-carved wilderness that will leave you, quite literally, breathless—San Juan County has the highest mean elevation of any county in the United States! And her mountains have been voted a “Top 10 Adventure Destination” by National Geographic, Outside and Skiing magazines.

“Silverton has more year-round access to more alpine backcountry than any town, anywhere, including Alaska if you’re too broke to hire an air taxi,” notes one local guide.

You don’t have to be a mountain goat or extreme athlete to glimpse this alpine wonderland—the San Juans are criss-crossed by a 500-mile network of some of the country’s best four-wheel drive roads, linking Silverton to surrounding towns by jeep trails winding through gleefully mountainous scenery. If you choose to take a guided tour, your driver will be happy to cater to whatever your interest may be—mining ruins and ghost towns, geology, wildflowers, alpine lakes, and waterfalls.... These people are experts on the history and highlights of the area, and can’t wait to share their stories with you.

Or, rent your own jeep from one of several outfits in town. If you opt for the latter, you might keep in mind the humble advice on a sign that once was posted at the outset of Black Bear Pass: “You don’t have to be crazy to drive this road...but it helps.”

All-terrain-vehicles and dirt bikes are tailor-made for high country exploration, too. Love to hike? “Which way shall we go?” is the hardest decision you’ll make when you’re in Silverton. The choices are as splendorous and varied as a field full of wildflowers. The Colorado Trail and Continental Divide Trail both wend their way through the Weminuche Wilderness to the south of town.

For a one-of-a-kind backpacking experience, enter the Weminuche by way of the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Jeepers and hikers are happy to share the backcountry roads and trails with mountain bikers too. The scenery is unequaled, and the challenge is one that the serious cyclists will appreciate! (Find kindred spirits and trail information at Mobius Cycles and Café on Greene St.) If you’re really looking for a thrill, check out the “downhill free riding” at Silverton Mountain, an extreme backcountry ski area six miles northwest of Silverton—ride the chairlift up, fly your bike down. Helmet not optional. The chairlift is open for scenic rides all summer, carrying passengers up Storm Peak to the breathless elevation of 12,300 feet (bring a jacket). There is a “beer garden” up top, consisting of a small shack and some simple benches, but this seems dwarfed, and extraneous, compared to the wild glory of the scenery all around you.

Whether your idea of camping is throwing a blanket roll down on a bed of pine needles, or finding the perfect “hook-up a view,” Silverton can accommodate you. The Denver Post rated Molas Lake (four miles to the south) the most beautiful campground in Colorado.  Campsites are tucked in around the lovely trout-stocked lake, with a backdrop of rolling alpine meadows and stunning, glacier-sculpted mountains. The primitive campgrounds at South Mineral Park to the west of Silverton provide spectacular views and secluded campsites alongside South Mineral Creek, many of which are accessible even by RV’s. There are a handful of good full-service campgrounds right in town, suitable for both tent camping and RV-ing.